The One Cue You Can’t Live Without

Allow me to introduce my all-time favorite training behavior: the subtle but mighty Hand Target! While one of the lesser-used techniques among owners, Hand Targeting has so many practical applications that it is well worth teaching it to your dog. Rather than explain it in writing, watch this video to see Hand Targeting in action. 
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Hand Targeting teaches your dog to touch his nose to your outstretched hand. “Why on earth would I want to do such a thing,” you ask? Once your dog can come to you and “boop” your hand, the possibilities for polite indoor and outdoor behavior are endless. For instance:

Indoors

• Your dog hears a noise at the window and barks. You ask him to target your hand. Now he’s forgotten about the window and is next to you, where you can toss a toy to distract him from the noise.
• You are inside an elevator with your dog. Hold your hand towards one corner, so your dog touches it and is now safely away from the other people coming and going at each floor.
• Your dog gets distracted by other people or dogs when walking through your building. If you see a potential distraction approaching on your right, do a Hand Target to your left side, which moves the dog to your left and allows you to body block. Then shorten your leash so you have more control as you pass the distraction.

Outdoors

• Your dog refuses to walk. Use a series of Hand Targets as you move forward, in order to get him “unstuck.”
• The streets in your neighborhood are peppered with delicious garbage, and your dog is an expert at finding each morsel. Use a Hand Target once in a while on the walk to keep his focus on you, not the garbage. Cue the Hand Target, dart off to one side or jog a few steps back, and encourage your dog to follow you.
• Your dog gets really excited (or really anxious) when he sees another dog. At the sight of another dog approaching on the right, ask for a Hand Target to your left side. Now your dog is safely on your left and you can body block as you walk past.
• As with the above strategy, if your dog is afraid of ambulances, skateboards, or other things in the environment, use a Hand Target to move him farther away from it without having to pull him.
• Your dog doesn’t respond consistently to “come.” Once he’s learned a solid Hand Target from a long distance, use this instead.

Remember to reward your dog for a job well done. Hand Targeting in the presence of a distraction is hard work, so pay him for his efforts accordingly. In future posts and the upcoming BKLN Manners™ book, I will outline detailed instructions for Hand Targeting for specific situations, as well as discuss how and when to use rewards when training. Stay tuned!