Some dogs have a complicated relationship with their crates. Perhaps Rosie naps in her crate, eat her meals in her crate, and generally likes the cozy space... until the door is locked. 

If this sounds familiar, let's play some fun, simple crate games with your dog to get her comfortable with the crate door being closed. Plan to keep these games short and enjoyable for your pup in the beginning, so she learns that being closed inside the crate is nothing to fear.

Watch this video for some ideas! 

Toys: The More, the Merrier
You can’t have enough toys. I’m talking about more than just one rope, one plush, and one treat-dispensing one. Wherever your puppy will be spending his time, he should have numerous toys in view at all times. Rotating toys is a great way to keep the toys interesting, provided that you leave at the very least six out per day.

Some puppies seem to gravitate to inappropriate “toys” such as shoes, while snubbing their actual toys. This is often due to your reaction to that toy. When the puppy picks up your shoe, everyone jumps up and starts running around frantically, playing a rousing game of can’t-catch-me. What fun! But when he pounces on his rope toy, no one seems to bat an eye. The solution is to add value to the appropriate toys. Whenever your puppy grabs his rope toy, jump up and start playing with him. That’s a toy he’ll want to pick up again!

Redirect to Appropriate Toys
To your puppy, everything is a potential chew toy. It’s your job not just to teach him “let’s not eat that table leg” but also “put this chewy in your mouth instead.” When your dog is in chewing-mode, he must have appropriate chew toys or edible chewies in front of him, so he can direct his attention to those. If (well, when) he mistakenly goes for the table leg instead, redirect him to an appropriate toy or chewy. You may have to do this over and over again in these first few months, but hang in there.

If your little one grabs your clothing or feet while you’re trying to walk, redirect him. Whenever you walk, carry a long toy, or cut off a long piece of fabric (think sweatshirt sleeve, tube sock, or pant leg), which you will drag behind you. This gives your puppy an appropriate item to sink his teeth into when he really just can’t help himself around a moving target. Instruct kids in the house to do the same, and you’ll have noticeably more peace between species.

Crate the Puppy... or your Stuff
With puppies, there are times when you just have to remove him from the situation. If your dog is in full-on chewing or biting mode and has ignored your redirections, it’s best to put him in his crate or pen for a few minutes with an appropriate chew toy. Your puppy should also be safely enclosed in a pen or small gated area when you’re not there to actively watch him. (You know that the minute you turn your back, he will either poop on your carpet or devour an heirloom.)

Even when you’re in the room supervising your puppy as he plays, you may want to crate your stuff. This means, if your puppy can’t resist a certain table leg, put a fence or other barrier around it, so he cannot have access to this forbidden delicacy. Management is a perfectly acceptable way to prevent your puppy from getting into trouble.

Teach Bite Inhibition
It’s never too early to learn polite play. By following a few rules for play, your puppy will learn what constitutes acceptable play behavior and what does not. All play should involve a toy; never roughhouse or wrestle with a puppy, as this encourages the very biting behavior that you are trying to stop. Be a good role model and set your dog up for success.

To start any game, wait for your puppy to sit. You don’t have to cue anything; just patiently wait for it. Sitting will become his way of saying “please.” Once he’s sat, start the game. Occasionally practice Drop It (see my article here) during the game, so he learns to listen to you even when he’s excited. If he accidentally bites you or your clothes, remove the toy and ignore him for five seconds or so. The consequence to his bite is that he loses his playmate for a moment. Then wait for him to sit before starting the game again.

Get His Energy Out
Proper socialization is a sprawling topic in itself, but I urge you to follow the advice of veterinary behaviorists (more info here), who recommend safe ways to get your puppy out in the world as early as possible. Trainer-led puppy kindergarten or play groups are the best avenue, as the facility should be sterilized, the vaccinations checked, and the play supervised. Short positive training sessions are also great for burning mental energy. A puppy who lives an enriched life with his physical and mental needs met will not have to resort to destructive chewing to pass the time.

You can do everything right and still have to deal with some puppy biting and chewing. Just remember that every little bit helps. Even if your puppy struggles to do the right thing with his teeth, the groundwork you’ve laid for polite play and a balanced lifestyle will benefit him as he matures into a well-rounded adult.

Dr. Shattuck explains:

The most common concern for this sort of jumping would be for neck and back injuries. It’s a very common cause of new neck/back problems, generally in the category of IVDD, intervertebral disc disease. (Click here for an excellent resource.)  I tell my clients that a small to medium dog jumping off a bed is the rough orthopedic equivalent of a person jumping off the roof of their car.

The second concern is the risk of ligamentous injury or tear. The classic example in dogs is what we call a ruptured cranial cruciate ligament, the dog equivalent of an ACL tear in people. This may or may not be accompanied by damage to the meniscus. In moderate to severe cases these sorts of injuries are best managed by surgery. Any sort of jumping or twisting motion can contribute to this type of injury.

The third concern would be dogs with osteoarthritis. This may be hereditary (such as hip dysplasia in a German Shepherd or elbow dysplasia in a Labrador), age-related, or post-injury. The incidence reported for all dogs with osteoarthritis in North America is 20%, but obviously the percentage is much higher in our older patient population. Osteoarthritis from any cause can be worsened by any activity that causes increased impact on the affected joints.  (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7198754/)

When a dog has a known back/neck injury or orthopedic injury or disease, our recommendations include the following:

1. Keep the dog fit and slender!  Excess weight exacerbates all orthopedic problems.

2. Minimize going up and down stairs, especially rapidly.

3. Train for ramp use; there should be NO jumping from beds, couches, chairs, and decks.

4. Active families should plan sensibly for what their dog can handle. Dogs are often good-natured optimists by nature; the question, “Want to go for a long hike up and down hills and over rocky terrain?” will be answered, “Yes please!” but the dog may pay for this the next day with sore muscles at the least, or a significant worsening of neck/back/joint disease in the worst case.

5. Slow, steady walking is the best exercise for older dogs or dogs with previous injuries, as well as dogs who are predisposed by breed to IVDD (The poster child for this of course is the Dachshund, but any chondrodystrophic breed is at increased risk. Examples include Shih Tzus, Pekingese, Lhasa Apsos, Corgis, and French Bulldogs.) The dog should walk at a pace that allows them to place each foot on the ground. If dogs are limping or sore after a walk, walks should be shortened.

6. Dog lifting harnesses are underutilized! They provide stability to help dogs keep their back level while getting where they need to go. Also, importantly, they help save the backs of their human helpers. (My doctor told me that lifting/moving dogs is a very common way for humans to get back injuries!) The Help ‘em up Harness (www.helpemup.com) is the OG, but there are also many knockoffs now.

Thank you to Dr. Shattuck for this thorough explanation of preventing injuries!

We know that most dogs are social creatures. If your dog always has extra energy to burn, adopting a second dog might be just what he needs. But before bringing another dog home, consider these questions. 

Why is my dog so energetic?
It’s important to understand the cause of your dog’s exuberance before you assume a second dog is the solution. Is your dog bouncing off the walls? A second dog may help him get his energy out, but not all energy-releasing activities are equal. For some dogs, play is just what they need, but others will get overstimulated by play, which can lead to crankiness, exhaustion, injury, or a fight. Some dogs are better channeling their energy into a “job” or sport to keep them mentally stimulated instead of just physically exhausted. Before assuming a second dog is the answer, consider trying dog daycare a few times a week. Ask the staff (or watch on their live stream, if possible) how your dog interacts with the others, and note your dog's behavior when he gets home. Is he relaxed and happy, or overstimulated and cranky?

If your dog slips from his collar or sees a fight breaks out at the dog park, will he respond to your “come” cue? When your dog is in harm’s way, a solid recall can save him from danger. These are some of the most frequent errors that handlers make when teaching their dogs to come when called. Do you make any of them?


​Mistake 1: “Come” means “the fun is over”
One of the biggest mistakes is to cue “come,” and when your dog runs to you, he is confronted with a negative consequence. For example, if you only call him when it’s time to leave the dog park, it’s no wonder he doesn’t like the word “come.” Imagine if your friend called you over and, when you arrived, she promptly threw a pie in your face. Wouldn’t you think twice the next time she asks you to come close to her? The fact is that, particularly with recall, your dog can choose whether to comply with your cue or to blow you off. Make sure he wants to choose you.
The solution: When you practice recall (which should be often!), make sure there is a positive consequence to coming. When Fido comes to you, start a game of fetch. Or reward with a treat. Or provide any other positive result. When it’s time to leave the dog park, reward Fido for coming with a piece of cheese, and then clip on the leash to leave.
Click Read More if you don't see the text below.

Say “Please” for Everything You Want
Your dog’s way of saying “please” is the almighty Sit. Teach your dog that, whenever he wants something, he has to sit for it. This requires him to control his impulses, even when he is excited or frustrated. To get started, make a list of all the things your dog wants from you on a daily basis. We call these “life rewards.” (See the video at the bottom of this article.) Some items may include getting:

• the leash put on,
• the door opened to go outside,
• a game of fetch or tug,
• meals, and
• permission on the couch or bed with you.

Whenever you’re ready to give your dog one of these life rewards, you’ll ask him to sit, just once, and wait for him to put his rear on the ground. 

What if he doesn’t sit on the first request? No sit, no reward. You’ll turn away, take a few deep breaths, and turn back to your dog to ask again. The moment he sits for the leash, meal, or other life reward, immediately give it to him. Good dog! For your dog to learn to be truly polite in all situations, you will implement this strategy for everything your dog wants, every time.

Place
The Place cue means “go to your mat and stay there until I release you.” If your dog tends to engage in jumping on people, door-dashing, getting underfoot, or countersurfing, Place can keep your dog out of harm’s way. (See it in action here.)  In my home, I use this cue when:

• I’m cooking,
• we’re eating at the table, 
• my not-so-dog-friendly guests are visiting, 
• I open the door for visitors or deliveries.

To teach the basic level of Place, choose a mat, bed, or towel for your dog to lie on. Follow this training sequence:

1. Say “place” and point or lure your dog onto the mat.
2. Once all four paws are on the mat, ask him to lie down. 
3. While he’s lying on the mat, you’ll pause for three seconds, then drop a treat on the mat between his paws. Repeat this sequence of pausing and treating. 
4. After several treats, say “okay” and release him from the mat.
5. As your dog gets better at this, you will increase the pauses between treats. This will build your dog’s ability to control his impulses and stay on the mat for longer periods of time.

Protocol for Relaxation
Dr. Karen Overall has created a practical plan for teaching your dog to remain calm even when you walk away, answer the door, or do a number of other exciting activities. And it’s free to read or download here!  

The Protocol for Relaxation is a 15-day program, though you can go at your dog’s pace. It lays out very specific instructions for how to build your dog’s impulse control even for long durations, at long distances, and in the presence of distractions. Dr. Overall wrote it so that anyone, not just experienced trainers, can implement the protocol. 

Learning to chill is one of the most important life skills a dog can acquire. You'll be greatly rewarded when you put in the time to teach your dog the polite way to interact with everything and everyone in his daily life.

​This article originally ran here on petguide.com.

1. Be a Teacher
Teaching and disciplining are not the same. When we think about humans, it’s easy to see the effects of a good teacher. We already know a good teacher approaches her student with compassion and empathy, not dominance. She acknowledges that her student lacks something, possibly a life skill (“Kevin doesn’t share with the other kids”) or an academic skill (“Maggie is struggling to spell new words”), and then, she provides her student with the tools to overcome that hurdle. Ultimately, the teacher’s goal is to leave that student in a more skilled position than when they first met.

The same holds true for the relationship with you and your dog. For instance, a lot of dogs pull on leash during walks. As your dog’s compassionate teacher, you:

1. Have empathy for your dog. From your dog’s perspective, walking slowly a leash makes absolutely no sense and can actually cause a great deal of stress, since he is not able to wander, stop, and sniff as dogs naturally do. And then…
2. Teach your dog that walking on a loose leash is actually enjoyable. This could involve positive reinforcement for walking next to you, to show your dog how fun it is to stay close to you rather than pull ahead.

In principle, it’s simple. But as any teacher knows, teaching a life skill, without force, takes a lot of time, repetition, and patience.

Remember: A good teacher asks, “What skills does this student need to become successful?” and provides the tools to achieve it, without force or pain.

2. Don’t be a Disciplinarian
Disciplining, on the other hand, is intended to stop an unwanted behavior at that moment. And it works! If the teacher snaps at Kevin, “Stop stealing Jenny’s snack!” and she slaps the cookie from his little hand, it will stop the unwanted behavior in that moment. But what has Kevin learned, except that teachers are scary? Will he stop stealing, or simply wait until the teacher’s back is turned? While his teacher may have scared him into not stealing for the moment, she has not given Kevin any productive skills to help him the next time he has the urge to grab someone's cookie.

When a teacher uses discipline instead of trying to understanding the student’s motivation for doing the unwanted behavior, the aim is to suppress, not to teach. All too often, discipline is simply a way for the disciplinarian to unload her own frustration on the student. And when something painful or scary is applied again and again, we need to acknowledge it for what it truly is: abuse.

It’s easy to apply this to the leash-walking example. Every time a handler pops the leash, euphemistically called a “correction,” the dog is yanked back and a little slack is created. In that moment, the discipline has indeed stopped the pulling. But what has the dog learned? And how many leash pops will a dog have to endure on every walk, without being given any constructive information about how to walk properly? In order to teach a skill, we cannot simply set the dog up to do the wrong thing (pull) and then punish him for doing so. This is a sure fire way to erode your dog’s trust in you and cause him unnecessary stress. Rather, we must create situations where it is easy for the dog to do the right thing (walk on a loose leash) and acknowledge when he’s doing it correctly. This not only builds skills but trust. We must set our dogs up to succeed, not fail.

Remember: A disciplinarian asks, “How can I make this behavior stop?” without providing constructive tools for the student to behave more appropriately.

While this may be a simplified example, you don’t need all the details of learning theory to grasp the main takeaway: You have a choice in what kind of role — teacher or disciplinarian — you will play in your dog’s training and daily life. Choose wisely.

Does the doorbell send your dog into a frenzy? A simple management solution will keep your dog from going bonkers when he hears that irresistible “ding-dong!” I describe the steps below in AKC TV's Ask the Expert.

​When teaching your dog polite behaviors, you have a choice: training or management. Training doorbell etiquette involves teaching your dog to do a polite behavior like a sit-stay instead of running and barking at the door. It’s a great skill but requires methodical implementation on the owner’s part, plus high impulse control on the dog’s part.

Click "Read More" below if you don't see the text below.

Management, on the other hand, is easier to apply. It involves setting up an environment in which barking and jumping at the door is impossible, simply by removing the dog from that area. The downside is that management doesn’t teach your dog to be polite; it only prevents him from engaging in the rude behavior. Still, it provides a great quick fix until you can implement a training protocol.

Here are the steps to what I call “Breakfast in Bed,” a way to manage both doorbell reactivity and the inevitable jumping on guests that follows.

1. Practice several repetitions of (A) ringing the doorbell (or playing a doorbell recording) and (B) immediately giving your dog a super tasty treat that he normally doesn’t have. We are conditioning him to associate the doorbell with top-notch treats. Practice this until your dog, hearing the bell, will consistently run to you for the treat rather than run to the door.
2. Once he gets the “game,” stuff lots of those tasty treats in a treat-dispensing toy. If your dog loves peanut butter, you can freeze a LickiMat or Kong Classic with peanut butter inside, which will take your dog several minutes to enjoy. Now, when you ring the bell, happily exclaim “breakfast in bed!” Run to grab your stuffed toy, and toss the toy in your bedroom or in the dog’s crate. Encourage your dog to follow. Once inside, shut the door, leaving your dog alone to eat.
3. After a minute or whenever he’s done eating, sneak into the bedroom. Before letting him out, ask him to “sit” first. Give the cue only once. If your dog sits, swing the door open and let him out. If he does not sit, shut the door and wait 5-10 seconds, then try again. Only polite dogs get the reward of being released.
4. Practice this sequence many times before guests actually come over, so it’s like second nature. Always have a stuffed toy ready in case you get a surprise ring or knock at the door.

When friends come over, I recommend leaving your dog in the bedroom with a buffet of goodies until your guests have settled into chairs and are less excited themselves. Once your guests are relaxed, you can release your dog to say hello.

If your dog shows intense doorbell reactivity or fear of guests, don't go it alone. Reach out to a qualified professional to give you a more tailored solution.

This article originally ran on petguide.com. 

Does your dog snarl when you try to take a toy from him? Growl when another dog approaches his food bowl? Or perhaps "protect" you from passing people or dogs on the sidewalk? If so, you may have a resource guarder.

Resource guarding is a normal phenomenon in the animal world. A feral dog that doesn't guard his food is likely to starve. Even people guard what they find valuable. We set up security cameras around our properties, lock our valuables in safe places, and may refuse to share our hard-earned money with others. While our dogs don't have expensive jewelry or savings accounts, they do have items that are valuable to them: food, toys, chewies, sleeping spots, and beloved family members. And they don't want to lose their treasured belongings any more than you do.

Click Read More if you don't see the text below, and check out my interview with AKC TV for resource guarding tips.

With domesticated dogs, it's true that many of them will happily give you their favorite rawhide, or be unfazed when you push them off the couch. But a number of dogs (including my own Margaret) feel threatened when a person or animal tries to take a valued item away. They may respond in a number of ways, hoping to scare you away:

• hovering over the item (food or toy)
• hard stare
• freezing and stiffening
• lip curling, baring teeth, or growling
• lunging towards the threat
• snapping or biting

Why do dogs resource guard? There are a variety of reasons. In some cases, a dog may have always had this tendency. But in other cases, the behavior has been learned. Sometimes an owner aims to teach their dog who's "boss" by intentionally removing the food bowl, chewy, or toy the dog is using. I've heard before, "Fido needs to learn that I can take his things away if I want to." In fact, this owner has actually taught the dog to guard more intensely. Fido's interpretation of the scenario sounds something like, "My person can't be trusted and will steal my food while I'm eating. Next time, I'll have to act even scarier to make him go away." Punishing the dog will make the situation even worse, confirming the Fido's fears that humans aren't to be trusted. Still, other times, a complicated family dynamic, lack of structure at home, or stressors in the environment can lead to a dog that feels threatened when someone gets too close to his [insert item or favorite person here]. 

The good news is that resource guarding is generally one of the most straightforward behavior issues to treat. While every protocol is unique, the behavior modification process generally involves teaching the dog that something awesome happens when a person approaches his food bowl, toys, etc. For instance, while your dog is eating his rawhide, you approach and, instead of grabbing the chewy, toss a piece of chicken at his feet and then walk away. After lots of reps like this, following a methodical plan, your dog will love your approach! Find a qualified dog behavior consultant or veterinary behaviorist to help you build a plan that teaches your dog that he can trust you, and that it's actually pretty cool not to guard his treasured items.

Pandemic... unemployment... social unrest... fireworks every night. So, how are you holding up? It's OK to say, "I'm really struggling right now." And it's OK for your dog to be out-of-sorts, too.

Our dogs look to us for structure and support, and these days, you might be forced into a situation that lacks both of those things. Perhaps you've left your urban apartment to stay with family in the countryside, or you haven't cracked open your front door since March. Your lifestyle changes can affect your dog's wellbeing, and you may have noticed more barking, constant clinginess, or other behavioral issues. 
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​Like many city dwellers, I became apartment-bound overnight. This had a huge impact on my two dogs. Not only was I suddenly home all day ("Score!" they exclaimed), so were all my neighbors and their dogs ("Grrrr!").  Beans and Margaret suddenly had the full-time job of "demo dogs" for all my Zoom lessons ("Yay, treats!"), but also had to learn -- while my students watched -- to take turns ("Why is she getting the treat and not me?") and to otherwise stay quiet while I was teaching ("Haha, but we're Chihuahuas!"). And now that we're living outside the city with relatives, new family dynamics have led to behavioral issues I never saw coming, from resource guarding of "grandpa" and his treat-filled pockets to refusing to go on walks. 

Some of this might sound familiar to you, too. So how can we help our dogs cope when we're barely coping ourselves? Here are a few tips to keep your and your dog's sanity relatively intact, even when the world around you seems to be falling apart.

1. Keep a routine
Try to keep your dog on some kind of schedule, whether it means waking up at the same time, taking a certain number of walks per day, or maintaining hobbies like fetch in the park or playtime at daycare (if it is open and safe). This can balance out the changes that you have no control over, such as being home 24/7.

2. Spend time apart
You can build separation into your day, even if you never open the front door. This will make the eventual transition to regular life less upsetting for Fido. Every day, I give each dog her meal in a food-dispensing toy in a room by herself. I close the doors while they eat, and keep it closed for a few minutes afterwards. It's a small daily reminder that being alone isn't the end of the world. If this is too challenging for your dog, a trainer or behavior consultant can help you ease your dog into separation. Don't wait for the day before you go back to the office!

3. Have adventures!
Some dogs get cabin fever, while others become so comfortable in one environment that they can't adapt to a new one. Take your dog on a mini-adventure every day or two: dog park, hiking trail, or just the sidewalk of the nearest town. If you've relocated temporarily, look for places nearby that feel like home, or if possible, visit your home once a week for a few hours. These trips prevent a shock when it's finally time to move back.

4. Use your time wisely
Do you have more free time lately? Use it to train your dog! Brush up on a skill that needs work (leash walking, anyone?). Or teach a fun trick, just because. Margaret and I are currently working on "jump through your arms." At least when the pandemic is over, we'll have a cool trick to show for it!

Check out my online classes at Doggie Academy including classes designed to tackle COVID-related stress!